After my episode of The Doctors aired, I received a lot of positive feedback about my makeup on the show. I sat down and talked with Margaux Lancaster, professional makeup artist in Los Angeles, about her niche: makeup for women over 40.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: What is something women may not realize they need as they get older?
Margaux Lancaster: You should not be wearing the same foundation and makeup that you wore in your 20s. What looked good then probably does not look as good now.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Are there area specific things you suggest? Let’s start with the skin.
Margaux Lancaster: Women over 40 need, especially if they have dry skin, a good primer. Once you have a good foundation, your makeup will stay all day and not crack. Additionally, exfoliation and moisturizer are the keys to making the skin smooth. Skin below makeup should be fresh and hydrated. I think of a rose petal—that is how your skin should feel. I make a homemade exfoliation scrub with coconut oil and salt or sugar.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: What comes next?
Margaux Lancaster: Foundations for women over 40 should be moisturizing. They should also contain a yellow or gold color. As women get older, they often lose skin color and get paler. These pigments will help give the skin a glow. And don’t use the compact sponge that comes with foundation—it passes germs to your skin. Get a set of good makeup brushes. Foundation should not be applied with fingers.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Any other foundation tips?
Margaux Lancaster: Yes. Foundation with gold will counteract red. The next trick is blend, blend, blend. If you use a good primer and moisturizer, your makeup will hardly need to be touched up during the day
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Are there any myths to avoid?
Margaux Lancaster: Darker foundation does not make your face look younger.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: I know I don’t always want to wear a full face of makeup. Are there any shortcuts for days when you just don’t have the time?
Margaux Lancaster: Absolutely! Tinted moisturizer can give skin a healthy glow without full makeup. This can also help to hide tiny veins and rosacea.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: What about powders?
Margaux Lancaster: Never, ever powder under the eyes! Powder will cake in the creases of your lid. Bare minerals is too heavy and thick for most women past their 20s. Use loose translucent or colorless powder.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: I’m Italian, and I sometimes have found in photos that my face looks like there is a halo around it with loose powder. What am I doing wrong?
Margaux Lancaster: If you go downward in the direction of the fine hair, you can avoid a fluffy, hazy look.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: How about tips to make your makeup looks as good later in the day as it does in the morning?
Margaux Lancaster: Keep a sponge in a Ziploc bag and use it dab or smooth your makeup throughout the day. Also carry blotting tissues or Japanese rice paper to remove excess oils during the day.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: I’ve found as I’ve gotten older, I’ve needed to adjust the way I wear my eye makeup. What tricks do you have for the eyes?
Margaux Lancaster: Small eyes can be enhanced by using neutral colors. The color should sweep out and up. I also have the best trick for covering dark circles. There is a product by Joe Basco called Beard #2, which was originally developed to cover 5 o’clock shadow. Using that can take away the blue under the eyes. And no lower lid liner!
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Any other eye tricks?
Margaux Lancaster: Of course! To avoid having makeup fall on your cheeks, dampen your makeup brush before applying. This will help the eye makeup last longer and it will also intensify the color. Also, if you do your eyes first, falling shadow doesn’t ruin your foundation. Do your brows last.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: The last trick you shared has been a game changer for me! Let’s talk lips. You chose a color I’d normally never wear when I was on The Doctors, but it looked great.
Margaux Lancaster: Yes, I used a lighter color on you. Chanel nude lip definer—everyone should wear this. It also helps with lipstick bleed. Dark lip colors can make fair women look hard, mean, or older. Use them with caution. Play up the eyes OR play up the lips, not both.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: My lipstick never seems to last. What is your lipstick suggestion?
Margaux Lancaster: 24 hour lip color dries and flakes. To get longer lasting lipstick: Apply foundation to the lips, then blot. Apply liner to lips, then blot. Powder the lips, then blot. Then add lip color.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: We’ve all seen women wearing makeup that is unflattering, but I’m sure those women think they’re doing the right thing. What thoughts do you have about that?
Margaux Lancaster: There are definitely trends to avoid! Over 50, avoid a lot of shimmer on the eyes. It can look like icing if it is overdone. A little bit goes a long way. Avoid over powdering; it can gather in lines and creases.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: I see many people wearing lash extensions. What are your thoughts?
Margaux Lancaster: Lash extensions can make women look like Vegas show girls as they get older. If you don’t wear full makeup with extensions, you tend to look unbalanced. And on the topic of eyes, avoid blue and green eyeshadow, liquid liner, and penciling the eyebrows. Those look too harsh. A waxy pencil will often skip or drag leaving uneven pigmentation. Cake eyeliner and an angled brush are better for the brows.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Do you have any other tips?
Margaux Lancaster: For women with a lot of lines, sometimes it works best to avoid lipstick and just use a tinted lip balm. This keeps the lipstick from creeping into lip lines.
Danielle DeLuca-Pytell: Thank you for those great insider tips! Do you have any other thoughts to share?
Margaux Lancaster: Makeup is trial and error. There is not going to be one product that works for everyone. The cost of a particular product also does not indicate its value.
Remember that celebrities, actors, and singers are all photoshopped. Nobody is is that flawless.
Margaux Lancaster Contact Information
Phone number 323-497-4455
Email address [email protected]
Business website www.belleamicibeauty.com
Personal website www.margauxlancaster.com